Malay Street Food in Tanjung Pinang: Otak-otak, Mie Lendir, Luti Gendang and More

Tanjung Pinang, the capital of Riau Islands Province, is a port city with a strong Malay food culture that has also absorbed Chinese influences. Many of its specialities are best enjoyed at a coffee shop in the morning or at a food court in the evening.

Dishes worth trying

• Mie lendir – Yellow noodles with bean sprouts and a boiled egg under a thick, brownish gravy made from peanuts and sweet potato. The slippery texture gave the dish its name, as lendir means slime. It tastes savoury and slightly sweet and usually comes with sliced chillies.
• Otak-otak – Spiced fish or squid paste wrapped in coconut leaves and grilled. The Tanjung Pinang version is reddish, aromatic and mildly spicy, eaten on its own or with a peanut dip.
• Luti gendang – A soft fried bun filled with savoury-sweet shredded fish. It originally comes from the Anambas Islands but is now a coffee shop staple across Tanjung Pinang.
• Mie tarempa – Flat noodles with a red spice paste and mackerel tuna (tongkol), served dry or with broth. It is named after Tarempa in the Anambas Islands.
• Tepung gomak – A glutinous rice cake filled with mung beans, palm sugar and grated coconut, dusted with flour.

Where to find them

In the evening, many locals head for Akau Potong Lembu in the city centre. This open-air food court brings together numerous stalls: you pick a table, order from several vendors and the food is brought to you. Besides Malay snacks, you will also find seafood such as gonggong and grilled fish. In the morning, traditional coffee shops are the best places to try luti gendang or mie lendir with a cup of milk tea.

A small tip

Luti gendang is also a popular souvenir. Ask whether half-fried versions are available, as they keep longer for the journey home.