Pulau Penyengat: The Royal Island off Tanjung Pinang
This small island across the water from Tanjung Pinang holds the legacy of the Riau-Lingga Sultanate: a striking yellow mosque, royal tombs and palace ruins. A pompong boat gets you there in about 15 minutes.
Just a short hop from central Tanjung Pinang, Pulau Penyengat is the best place to get to grips with the Malay history of the Riau Islands. The island is only about 2.5 kilometres long, yet it was once the seat of the Yang Dipertuan Muda, the viceroy of the Riau-Lingga Sultanate, and doubled as a fortified stronghold. According to tradition, Sultan Mahmud Syah III gave the island to his consort, Engku Puteri Raja Hamidah, as a wedding gift.
Getting there and around
From the jetty in central Tanjung Pinang, motorised wooden boats known as pompong make the crossing in around 15 minutes, usually leaving once enough passengers have boarded. Penyengat itself is calm and compact, with narrow lanes that are easy to explore on foot. If you prefer to ride, hop on a bentor, a local motorcycle rickshaw. Many drivers double as informal guides and share stories at each stop, so agree on the fare before setting off.
What to see
- Masjid Raya Sultan Riau – the yellow-and-green mosque is visible from the boat long before you land. It was extensively rebuilt in 1832 and is famous for the story that egg whites were mixed into its mortar. Its 13 domes and 4 minarets add up to 17, the number of prayer cycles in the five daily prayers. Inside is a handwritten Quran dating from 1867.
- Tomb complex of Engku Puteri Raja Hamidah – the queen is remembered for steadfastly guarding the royal regalia. The same complex holds the grave of Raja Ali Haji, national hero and author of the Gurindam Dua Belas, whose verses are displayed on the walls of his tomb building.
- Tomb of Raja Haji Fisabilillah, another national hero, who died fighting the Dutch.
- Balai Adat Melayu, a traditional house on stilts that serves as a centre for local cultural life.
- Palace ruins such as the Istana Kantor, plus the Bukit Kursi fort with cannons pointing out to sea.
Tips for your visit
Penyengat is also a place of pilgrimage, so dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered, especially at the mosque and the tombs. Come in the morning before the heat builds and bring your own water. Half a day is usually enough to see the main sites without rushing.